Faux River Rock Panels Installation
Antico Elements` Rock Panels are designed to interlock on all sides to create a seamless look. They are designed for Indoor and Outdoor uses. Even though the installation is very simple, make sure to read the instructions in order to avoid problems and gaps.
Before installations:
Always try to keep the panels leveled. The walls should be dry and free of dust. Some of the fasteners and adhesive should be used where the panels and lips overlap.
Tools needed: ( same as wood cutting tools )
• Measuring tape and pencil
• Hand saw ( a table saw, miter saw or jig saw can be used if available )
• Nails or screws ( exterior grade if used outdoor and masonry screws for brick, concrete etc)
• Nail set
• Hammer (or screw driver/drill if using screws)
• Level
• Framing square
• Chalk line
• Construction adhesive, E.G: Liquid Nails, PL, etc.
• Safety Glasses
Our products can be installed Indoor and Outdoor, directly over framing, drywall, brick or concrete.
-For indoor all you need is adhesive and wood screws.
-For outdoor you might need an outdoor grade adhesive and galvanized screws. Some caulking may be needed.
-For brick, concrete, cinder blocks and similar you will need masonry screws, like "Tapcons".
Installing parts:
It is always a good idea to temporarily lay out the panels around the project to plan which / how panels will be cut and which will not.
Prepare The Inside Corner
In your project you may have inside (e.g. corners in a square room) or outside corners ( e.g the corners in the image above) to deal with. For the outside ones we have Outside Corners already made. For inside corners you will need to use the Grouted Panel and Individual Rocks, described in more details below.
If you plan to use our corners, start by installing them TEMPORARILY before the panels, making sure they are perpendicular to the floor. For now just use a couple of nails/screws and NO adhesive.
Position The First Panel
We recommend that you install the panels from left to right. For better results mark some horizontal chalk lines on the wall to keep your panels leveled.
Position the panels so that the horizontal 48" lip is at the top and the horizontal notch at the bottom.
If you start the project by butting the first panel against another wall, the left side of the first panel should be trimmed, removing the protruding stones and creating a straight edge.
Apply a few lines of adhesive in the back and where the panels overlap / interlock and fasten the panel to the wall using screws or nails.
If you install the screws below a stone, rather than in the middle, it will be easier to conceals them. To completely conceal the screw heads you can apply any color caulk and use our Touch-Up Kit to match the stone colors.
Install The First Row Of Panels
Continue with the rest of the panels of the first row.
In most cases, when reaching an inside or outside corner, you will have a gap between the last panel and the corner. A full panel will be either too short or too long. For this reason we have created a Grouted Panel and Individual Rocks.
In some cases like fireplaces, one corner and one panel will be longer than the face of the fireplace. In this case we suggest miter-cutting the right side of the panel to create the turn or place the full panel in the middle and create left and right corners with our Grouted Panel and Individual Rocks.
Installing The Grouted Panels
Cut a section of the Grouted Panel to fit between the last Rock panel and the corner.
Grouted Panel's Interlocking Lips
Please consider that the grouted panel has a tongue-and-groove system. When cutting the grouted panel take a minute to choose which side to use.
Install The Individual Stones
Once the grouted panel is installed you may start installing the Individual Rocks on top of it.
If you need to install multiple rows the steps are the same as above.
Installing The Top Sills
If you do not plan to install the Rock Panels all the way to the ceiling you may use our Trim Sill - Ledge Trim to cap the top edge of the panels. These trim can also be used on the side of the panel, in case you decide to stop the panel in the middle of a wall.
Install the Top Sills in the correct direction making sure to locate the unfinished edge and placing it against the wall. The bottom front edge should be finished. If the sill isn`t touching the wall it should be turned around.
To create a better seam between two sills, the sills should be mitered where they meet at the corners, as you would do with a picture frame.
In most cases caulking the seams shouldn`t be needed but you can apply any exterior grade caulk and use our Touch-Up Kit to match the stone colors.
Enjoy The Great And Very Realistic Stone Look
The great and rewarding finished look
Enjoy!
Feel free to request additions and modification to these instructions. Send us a comment by clicking here to email info@anticoelements.com.
Thanks!
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EditorInstallation Of Switch And Outlet Trim.
Antico Elements` Switch, Outlet and Fixture Trim Boxes are designed to move all electrical parts from the wall level to the stone level and flush with the from of our stone product. This dramatically increase the realistic look of the project.
They can be installed VERTICALLY or HORIZONTALLY to accommodate for one or more fixtures. We have only one Switch Trim product.
Before installations:
MAKE SURE TO CUT OFF ALL ELECTRICITY GOING TO THE SWITCHES AND RECEPTACLES.
Tools needed: ( same as wood cutting tools )
• Measuring tape and pencil
• Hand saw ( a table saw, miter saw or jig saw can be used if available )
• Nails or screws ( exterior grade if used outdoor and masonry screws for brick, concrete etc)
• Nail set
• Hammer (or screw driver/drill if using screws)
• Level
• Framing square
• Chalk line
• Construction adhesive, E.G: Liquid Nails, PL, etc.
• Safety Glasses
Installing parts:
REMEMBER, you may click on the images below to enlarge them. Click the "Back" browser button to come back to this page.
Start your panels and accessories installation as usual and pause when you are getting to an outlet, switch or fixture.
Lay your next panel by the switch.
Transfer the location of the switch on the the panel that will go in front of the it. Place the Switch Box in the center of that measurement. With a pencil race the outline of the Box onto the panel.
With a jig saw cut a hole around the pencil line. We suggest cutting inside the pencil line. The opening should line up with existing switch. Try to slide the Switch Box in the opening to test the accuracy of the cut. It might need some sanding and filing to make them fit
Make sure to turn off the electricity going to the outlet. Cut a hole in the center of the Switch Box, large enough to pull the switch through it. Make sure not to make the hole too big otherwise it might show around the face plate. Remove the face plate and unscrew the switch from the electrical box.
Pull the switch through the hole created and screw it on our Switch Box. The wiring is usually long enough for this.
You can now put some adhesive around he opening of the stone panel and slide the Switch Box through it.
Pull the Box in-out to make sure that all the exposed edges on the panels are covered by the box.
Use some nails or screws to hold the box in place. In some cases there may be the need for some caulking to close gaps between the Box and the stone panels. If the color of the caulk doesn't match, you may always use one of our Touch-Up Kits.
Now you can install the face plate back.
If you have more than one switch or outlet you may install our Switch Trim horizontally to fit more of them. If you have a very large fixture or multiple outlets / switches, you may combine two or more Switch Trim and make a larger one.
By rotating our Trim horizontally you should be able to house at least 2-3 switches.
For exterior application we suggest caulking the edges where water could penetrate.
Enjoy!
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Feel free to request additions and modification to these instructions. Send us a comment by clicking here to email info@anticoelements.com.
Thanks!
Editor
Installation Instructions For Faux Brick Panels
Antico Elements` great brick panels are designed to interlock on all sides to create a seamless look. They are designed for Indoor and Outdoor uses. Even though the installation is very simple, make sure to read the instructions in order to avoid problems and gaps with these types of faux panels.
Before installations:
Always try to keep the faux panels leveled. The walls should be dry and free of dust. Some of the fasteners and adhesive should be used where the panels and lips overlap.
Tools needed: ( same as wood cutting tools )
• Measuring tape and pencil
• Hand saw ( a table saw, miter saw or jig saw can be used if available )
• Nails or screws ( exterior grade if used outdoor and masonry screws for brick, concrete etc)
• Nail set
• Hammer (or screw driver/drill if using screws)
• Level
• Framing square
• Chalk line
• Construction adhesive, E.G: Liquid Nails, PL, etc.
• Safety Glasses
Our products can be installed Indoor and Outdoor, directly over framing, drywall, brick or concrete.
-For indoor all you need is adhesive and wood screws.
-For outdoor you might need an outdoor grade adhesive and galvanized screws. Some caulking may be needed.
-For brick, concrete, cinder blocks and similar you will need masonry screws, like "Tapcons".
Installing parts:
Installing Faux Brick - Click To Enlarge
It is always a good idea to temporarily lay out the faux brick panels around the project to plan which / how faux panels will be cut and which will not.
We recommend that you install the panels from right to left unless you plan to use corner pieces ( see below ). For better results marks some horizontal chalk lines on the wall to keep your panels leveled.
Position the panels so that the horizontal lip is at the top and the horizontal notch at the bottom.
To start, the right side of the first panel should be trimmed, removing the fingers and creating a straight edge.
Cut the right fingers of the first panel - Click To Enlarge
Apply a few lines of adhesive in the back and where the panels overlap / interlock and fasten the panel to the wall using screws, nails or long brad nails.
Apply Adhesive - Click To Enlarge
Continue with the rest of the panels of the first row. If the faux brick panels terminate against another wall, simply cut the panel to size. The exposed edges will be hidden by the next wall. It is always better to mark your dimensions in the back of the panels.
If you have an outside corner wall and need to wrap around it with our faux brick, you have at least 2 options. Using our Corners or Mitering the panels' cuts.
1- Use our Faux Brick Corners.
Using Our Faux Brick Corners - Click To Enlarge
When using the Outside Brick Corners we suggest starting the installation from one of the corners, and not from left to right on a wall, as mentioned at the top of this page.
Installing the left side will be easy. Installing panels on the right side of the corner will require lifting the previous panel a bit to squeeze the next one in. Not a big problem.
When using multiple corners you will notice that at one side of the wall you will interlock panel-to-corner easily and on the opposite side some "jig-sawing" will be necessary. In this case you should not install all the corners first. See Image below.
Trace the fingers of the corner on the panel - Click To Enlarge
To accomplish this, simply cut the last panel on that wall straight with the corner of the wall.
Place the corner on top of the panel and trace the fingers of the corner on the panel with a pencil.
Remove the corner and with a jig saw create the matching fingers on the panel so that the two parts will interlock.
Now you may install the last panel and this corner piece. On the other side of this corner you can simply interlock your next panel, the "fingers" will match without having to make custom cuts.
Repeat this method for each corner, where panels are installed between corners.
2- Create a mitered corner with a panel. For more on this type of cuts see: How To Create A Mitered Corner
You can use a faux brick panel to wrap around a corner.
Cut a panel at 45 degrees - Click To Enlarge
One important note: Always use the two pieces of one panel for the left and right side of the corner so that the brick will match at the tip.
Finished Mitered Corner - Click To Enlarge
When installing multiple rows of panels make sure to start the second and every other row, with half panel so that the seams will be staggered and you be able to use more of the left-over pieces.
For the top edge of the panels, we have really nice Ledge Trim that are meant to nicely sit on top of a panel.
Ledge Trim - Click To Enlarge
For exterior application we suggest caulking the edges where water could penetrate.
Enjoy!
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Feel free to request additions and modification to these instructions. Send us a comment by clicking here to email info@anticoelements.com.
Thanks!
Editor
How To Create A Return (cover exposed edges)
Antico Elements` Stone Panels are designed to interlock on all sides to create a seamless look.
When it comes to covering exposed edges after a cut, you have different options :
Click on the photos to enlarge them, then click your browser's Back button to come back here.
1- Use our Trim, which are very easy to install:
Install our trim first and cut the panels to butt against it:
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The trim is about 1/8" thicker than the panel and it will cover all exposed edges.
2- Cut the end of the panel at 45 degrees and create a "return" as shown in the photos below:
Tools needed: ( same as wood cutting tools )
• Measuring tape and pencil
• Saw ( a table saw, or circular with a straight edge are ideal for this project but other types will work too)
• Nails or screws ( exterior grade if used outdoor)
• Hammer (or screw driver/drill if using screws)
• Level
• Construction adhesive, E.G: Liquid Nails or PL.
• Safety Glasses
As mentioned above, the ideal saw for this particular project is a table saw BUT you can also use a circular saw with a straight edge.
The two important things to consider in order to create a professional looking return are:
1- You must miter the edges of the panels that will create the return,
2- Both sides of the return should come from the same panel so that the stones will line up.
Start by measuring where to cut the front side of the panel. Remember that you should always measure and mark the FRONT of the panels for this type of cut. After the cut, the back side should be shorter than the front.
Cut the panel at 45^ on the side where you want to create the Return. Put away the good section.
Take the left over section.
Cut the left over section at 45 degrees and remove the "triangle" piece from the BACK.
Now cut the other side straight, at as wide as the thickness of the panel, to create the "triangle" piece shown below.
If using the same panel, with continuous pieces, the stones will match nicely at the tip.
Now you may glue the piece to the panel and to the wall and use some finishing nails.
Using a file or sand paper, smooth out the edges and excess material. If both sides of the return come from the same panel you should have very little to sand.
If necessary use some caulking to seal the gaps and cover to exposed material.
Our Touch-Up Kit can be used to cover the caulk and the sanded areas by matching every color of the stones. Click HERE to view the instructions on how to use our Touch-Up Kit.
Considerations:
1- This type of cut will require an advanced skill level with a table saw.
2- Our Trim is a much easier way to cap an exposed edge but it's ultimately a matter of personal preference.
Congratulations! Your job is done and you can now enjoy an incredibly realistic stone look.
As always, we are available for questions and assistance at any step of your project.
Thank you. Antico Elements.
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Feel free to request additions and modification to these instructions. Send us a comment by clicking here to email info@anticoelements.com.
Thanks!
.
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EditorHow To Install Our Panels On A Curved Surface
Antico Elements` Stone Panels are designed to interlock on all sides to create a seamless look and can be bent to follow a moderately curved surface.
You may be able to install our Faux Stone Panels on a curved surface if the radius of the curve is more than 10 feet. Using the panels on a 8-foot radius or less is not recommended unless the panels are cut in vertical strips (mitering the edges) as shown in the bottom photo. If the turn radius is sharper, you may crack or break the panels.
Warning: Due to different temperature conditions and different ways of handling these products by our customer, we cannot guarantee that our products will bend at any radius without damage. Our customers should order a sample and try to bend it around the install surface before submitting the final order.
If our Faux Stone Products are slowly warmed up by leaving them under the sun or carefully using a hair dryer, they may bend more. Do not to heat them too quickly to avoid "bubbling" of the finish.
Tools needed:
• Measuring tape and pencil
• Nails or screws ( exterior grade if used outdoor)
• Hammer (or screw driver/drill if using screws)
• Level
• Hair dryer or a heat gun at the lowest setting
• Safety Glasses
Click on the photos to enlarge them, then click your browser's Back button to come back here.
-Let's look at the example below - Note the max Radius:
Curved Surface To Cover.
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-Do not use any adhesive yet.
-If possible lay the panels under the sun to warm them up.
-Start by applying a few screws on the left side of the panel.
Starting from the left
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-Using a vertical motion and by constantly moving your arm, apply the heat moving slowly from left toward the right side of the panel.
-Have someone push gently on the right side of the panel against the curved wall as you keep heating the panel. Please take your time during the push. You should feel the panel becoming easier to push as you apply the heat. If you find yourself needing too much strength to bend the panel it probably means that you need to apply more heat, again slowly. If by any chance the paint gets damaged you can use Our Touch-Up Kit to repair those areas.
-When the panel has conformed to the curve of the wall you may apply a few screws to the right edge and let the panel cool down.
-Once all your panels are shaped, remove them and start installing them with adhesive and all the screws needed.
Heat up the panels
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If your radius is too sharp for this method you can always cut the panels in vertical strips with the blade tilted on an angle and work your way around the curved surface.
Using vertical strips
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For more complete instructions on how to install our panels, including cutting, caulking and touch-ups please visit our other Installation Pages.
Congratulations! Your job is done and you can now enjoy an incredibly realistic stone look.
As always, we are available for questions and assistance at any step of your project.
Thank you. Antico Elements.
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Feel free to request additions and modification to these instructions. Send us a comment by clicking here to email info@anticoelements.com.
Thanks!
.
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Tools needed: ( same as wood cutting tools )
• Measuring tape and pencil
• Saw ( a table saw, or circular with a straight edge are ideal for this project but other types will work too)
• Nails or screws ( exterior grade if used outdoor)
• Hammer (or screw driver/drill if using screws)
• Level
• Construction adhesive, E.G: Liquid Nails or PL.
• Safety Glasses
Click on the photos to enlarge them, then click your browser's Back button to come back here.
How To Install Our Panels On A Fireplace
Antico Elements` Stone Panels can be used in a variety of applications including refacing or building a fireplace.
There are two basic ways to use our panels and we'll explore both scenarios in this page:
-With our Corners
-Without our Corners ( mitering our Panels )
Tools needed: ( same as wood cutting tools )
• Measuring tape and pencil
• Saw ( a table saw, or circular with a straight edge are ideal for this project but other types will work too)
• Nails or screws ( exterior grade if used outdoor and "Tapcons" if installing on masonry, concrete or brick )
• Hammer (or screw driver/drill if using screws)
• Level
• Construction adhesive, E.G: Liquid Nails or PL.
• Safety Glasses
Click on the photos to enlarge them, then click your browser's Back button to come back here.
Below we'll use a brick fireplace as an example but these instructions will also work for existing stone, cement boars, plain studs and other materials. Our Stone Panels can be installed directly over these surfaces.
Original Fireplace
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The ideal installation ( not a requirement ) of our panels includes a 4"-6" frame around the firebox made of tiles or other heat-resistant material. You can use tiles, bricks, slate. Ideally this material should be a bit thicker than our panels, approximately 1/8" more.
Please keep in mind that our panels can be ordered in fire-rated material which is different from fire-proof therefore our panels should not be used inside the firebox area. We strongly suggest ordering the products in fire-rated for those areas that might reach high temperatures.
Please note that even with the fire-rated option, our products are not heat-proof or fire-proof. As a rule of thumb, if you are not comfortable using a piece of hardwood at that distance, you might want to consider increasing the clearance from the firebox of stove.
Frame around the opening
.Click HERE to view a real-life example of this type of frame.
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If you decide to use our Corners this is the step where you should install them:
Install the corners
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Once the corners are installed you can cut our panels to fit between them and cut the opening around the frame / firebox.
Install the panels left to right, bottom row first. The first panel should have the left side "fingers" removed, creating a straight line.
The best way to secure the panels is by placing a few beads of construction adhesive ( E.g. Liquid Nails or PL ) on the back of each panel AND where the panels overlap and interlock, then use some screws.
Make sure to blow off all the dust from where the adhesive will be applied.
Apply adhesive.
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We suggest using screws in the middle of the panel (possibly hiding them under a stone) and some around the edges, where panels interlock and overlap. You can cover the screw heads with caulking and paint them with our Touch-Up Kit.
Install the panels between the corners
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Install the rest of the panels.
If installing multiple rows of panels start from the bottom up. The next row up should start with half panel to stagger the vertical seam and create a better look:
Install all the panels
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If you have a raised fireplace with some space below the hearth you can use the left over material to fill that space. At the corners you can miter the ends of these strips or use a short section of our Corners:
Install the panels below the hearth
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This is how it will look at the end:
End of installation with corners
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If you decide not to use our corners the panels can be easily mitered at the corners. Please refer to our instructions on How To Create A Mitered Corner .
You can miter the end of the panels using a table saw, circular saw with a straight edge or other wood-cutting tools:
Mitering panels
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This is how your fireplace will look without our corners:
End of installation without corners
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Alternatives for treating edges around the firebox opening.
Other ways to treat the edges around the opening are:
- Cutting the panel flush with the opening and touching up the edges.
- Create a narrow return flush with the face of the fireplace. Please refer to our installation page : How To Create A Return
- Cut the exposed edges to butt against an insert or door's frame.
- Use our Trim Sill to frame the firebox opening and cut the panels to butt against the Trim.
If creating a frame around the opening is not part of your plan you can easily cut the panel flush with the firebox.
After createing the opening use a file or sand paper to round the edges and create some fake grout lines.
Cover the exposed edges with some caulking or Bondo and use our Touch-Up Kit to match the colors of each stone. This is actually very quick fun. See example below.
Cut the panels flush with the opening.
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Below is an example of the edges being sanded and touched up.
Touching up the exposed edges.
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If you have a fireplace insert or a frame around the firebox opening that sticks out more than the thickness of the panel, you can cover the exposed edges but butting the panels against the frame. See image below. CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE.
Covering the edges with the fireplace insert's metal frame.
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A great way to cover the exposed edges is to install our Trim Sills around the firebox opening or insert then cutting the panels to butt against the Trim Sill. CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE.
Using our Trim Sills
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Congratulations! Your job is done and you can now enjoy an incredibly realistic stone look.
We are always available for comments and questions during any stage of your project.
Thank you for your interest in Antico Elements' products!
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Feel free to request additions and modification to these instructions. Send us a comment by clicking here to email info@anticoelements.com.
Thanks!
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EditorHow To Create A Mitered Corners
Antico Elements` Stone Panels are designed to interlock on all sides to create a seamless look.
When it comes to corners you have two choices:
-Use our Inside and Outside Corners, which are very easy to install,
Using our corners
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or:
-Cut a panel in the middle and wrap it around the corner.
Using our Panels to create a corner
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The instructions below are for the second option. Here is how you can cut and miter our panels to create a beautiful corner.
Tools needed: ( same as wood cutting tools )
• Measuring tape and pencil
• Saw ( a table saw, or circular with a straight edge are ideal for this project but other types will work too)
• Nails or screws ( exterior grade if used outdoor)
• Hammer (or screw driver/drill if using screws)
• Level
• Construction adhesive, E.G: Liquid Nails or PL.
• Safety Glasses
Click on the photos to enlarge them, then click your browser's Back button to come back here.
As mentioned above, the ideal saw for this particular project is a table saw BUT you can also use a circular saw with a straight edge.
The two important things to consider in order to create a professional looking corner are:
1- You must miter the edges of the panels that will intersect at the corner and,
2- Both sides of the corners should come from the same panel so that the stones will line up.
Start by measuring where to cut the left side of the corner on a panel. Remember that you should always measure and mark the back of the panels.
Cut the left section so that the back edge will line up with the corner on the wall.
Cut the right section.
You should be left with a triangular piece.
Cut a panel in two
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The edges that will intersect at the corner need to be cut at 45 degrees.
Miter at 45 degrees
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The best way to secure the panels is by placing a few beads of construction adhesive ( E.g. Liquid Nails or PL ) on the back of each panel AND where the panels overlap and interlock, then use some screws.
Make sure to blow off all the dust from where the adhesive will be applied.
Apply adhesive.
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Install the two halves of the panel to create the corner. Use construction adhesive behind the panels and at the corner joint. Secure with some screws making sure to minimize any gap at the front edge of the corner.
Install the two halves
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Using a file or sand paper smooth out the edges and excess material. If both sides of the corners come from the same panel you should have very little to sand.
Smooth out the edges
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If necessary use some caulking to seal the gaps and cover to exposed material.
Our Touch-Up Kit can be used to cover the caulk and the sanded areas by matching every color of the stones. Click HERE to view the instructions on how to use our Touch-Up Kit.
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Continue installing the rest of the panels, left to right, and repeat the above instruction for every corner.
For inside corners you can use similar procedure and by mitering the panels with the opposite 45 degree angle.
If installing multiple rows of panels remember to start the next row with half panel to avoid lining up the vertical seams in the same place.
Install our Top Sills if necessary. They add a very nice finished look.
Install the rest of the panels.
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Once all the parts are installed you may caulk all gaps to prevent water from sliding behind the panels.
Seal the edges
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Congratulations! Your job is done and you can now enjoy an incredibly realistic stone look.
As always, we are available for questions and assistance at any step of your project.
Thank you. Antico Elements.
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Feel free to request additions and modification to these instructions. Send us a comment by clicking here to email info@anticoelements.com.
Thanks!
.
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EditorInstallation Instructions For Alpi Post Wraps
Antico Elements` Stone Post Wraps are designed to interlock on all sides to create a seamless look. Even though the installation is very simple, make sure to read the instructions in order to avoid problems and gaps.
Tools needed: ( same as wood cutting tools )
• Measuring tape and pencil
• Hand saw ( a table saw, miter saw or jig saw can be used if available )
• Nails or screws ( exterior grade if used outdoor)
• Nail set
• Hammer (or screw driver/drill if using screws)
• Level
• Construction adhesive, E.G: Liquid Nails or PL
• Safety Glasses
Click on the photos to enlarge them, then click your browser's Back button to come back here.
Cutting our Post Wrap Panels:
If you need to cut our Post Wraps to accommodate for your project's dimensions, you can use different types of wood saws. The ideal would be a large miter saw but you can easily use a table saw, hand saw or jig saw. Make sure that you measure each panel from the same direction and make the cuts on the same side of all 4 panels. E.G. If you have four panels marked "A" and you cut off the A side from 2 panels and the B side from the other 2, the post will not inerlock correctly. Always cut the 4 panels in the same spot.
Installing parts:
You should have received one or multiple sets of 4 flat panels. Although they can be glued together and have them free-standing, we suggest the following steps to anchor the panels to an existing post or support.
Each 36" panel should have an "A" or a "B" stamped on the top or bottom edge. Make sure that each 36" post is created by 4 As or 4 Bs. If you mix the two together they will not interlock.
The 73" posts will have both A, on one side, and B on the other. Make sure you line up all the As or Bs before assembling them.
Begin by creating 8 "L" shaped braces out of plywood or any water resistant material, like pressure-treated wood. You may create them by nailing/screwing 2 pieces of wood together at 90°. The overall outside dimensions of the brackets should be about 1/8" less than 12", the inside dimension will vary depending on the size of your post/pillar. The reason for making the frame 1/8" smaller is to ensure that the 4 post panels will interlock all the way.
In the example below we have used an 8" post so the brackets are 2" deep.
These instruction are based on a 36" Post Wrap so you may need more than 2 braces if using taller Post Wraps.
Nail / screw some wood blocks on the post/pillar to create a mounting surface for the "L" brackets. When positioning these mounting blocks, keep in mind that the "L" brackets should not be installed higher than 36-1/2" above ground ( or the height of our Post Wrap Panels ) otherwise the Cap will not rest on the panels' edge and you will have a gap in between the two.
The bottom brackets should also be installed a few inches above ground, to keep them dry.
Install the brackets / supports
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Now that your brackets are installed it's time to snap 2 of the 4 panels together. As mentioned above, each post should be created by four A or four B panels.
You should use some construction adhesive between the "fingers" for better hold. Use some galvanized finishing nails or temporary screws to hold the "fingers" of the panels tightly together until the adhesive sets.
Position the panels against a corner created by the "L" brackets. Again, make sure the "L" bracket is not installed above the top edge of the panels.
Install the first 2 panels over the brackets
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Now you can snap panels 3 and 4 together as you did with the first two to create a second corner.
Now position these two panels on the opposite side of the post to complete the four sided Wrap. Glue/nail them to the first two panels.
Install the other two panels.
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Our posts can also be stacked. You can cut a section of one post and stack it on another to reach your desired height. We strongly suggest that these cuts are made along the grout lines in order to hide the seams. These seams can be easily caulked and painted with our Our Touch-Up Kits.
Our Wraps can be stacked
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It's now time to install the Open Stone Caps or the Closed Stone Caps.
Our Caps come in 2 interlocking pieces OR a solid cap. The middle opening, for the open caps, was created for a 6"x6" post so it might need to be cut larger to fit your post size. The closed caps can be also cut to accommodate for smaller posts. You can easily do that with a jig saw. If you have odd sized posts or end up with gaps between the post and the Cap's opening, you may use one of our small Trim/Molding to cover those gaps.
Install the caps and touch-up.
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We strongly advise to caulk at least the gaps between the Cap and the wood post to prevent water from going inside the post and possibly rot your mounting brackets if they are made out of non water resistant material.
For better results you can caulk the areas where the panels snap together at the "fingers". Our Touch-Up Kits can be used to paint the caulk to match the colors of the stones.
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Congratulations! Your job is done and you can now enjoy an incredibly realistic stone look.
As always, we are available for questions and assistance at any step of your project.
Thank you. Antico Elements.
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Feel free to request additions and modification to these instructions. Send us a comment by clicking here to email info@anticoelements.com.
Thanks!
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EditorInstallation Instructions For Interlocking Faux Stone Panels
These instructions apply to our Alpi, Romana, Comiso, Castello and Corallo panels.
Antico Elements` Stone Panels are designed to interlock on all sides to create a seamless look. They are designed for Indoor and Outdoor uses. Even though the installation is very simple, make sure to read the instructions in order to avoid problems and gaps.
Animation
Before installations:
Always try to keep the panels leveled. The walls should be dry and free of dust. Some of the fasteners and adhesive should be used where the panels and lips overlap.
Tools needed: ( same as wood cutting tools )
• Measuring tape and pencil
• Hand saw ( a table saw, miter saw or jig saw can be used if available )
• Nails or screws ( exterior grade if used outdoor and masonry screws for brick, concrete etc)
• Nail set
• Hammer (or screw driver/drill if using screws)
• Level
• Framing square
• Chalk line
• Construction adhesive, E.G: Liquid Nails, PL, etc.
• Safety Glasses
Our products can be installed Indoor and Outdoor, directly over framing, drywall, brick or concrete.
-For indoor all you need is adhesive and wood screws.
-For outdoor you might need an outdoor grade adhesive and galvanized screws. Some caulking may be needed.
-For brick, concrete, cinder blocks and similar you will need masonry screws, like "Tapcons".
Installing parts:
Prepare The Inside Corner
It is always a good idea to temporarily lay out the panels around the project to plan which / how panels will be cut and which will not.
If you plan to use our corners, start by installing them TEMPORARILY before the panels making sure they are perpendicular to the floor. For now just use a couple of nails and NO adhesive.
Position The First Panel
We recommend that you install the panels from left to right. For better results mark some horizontal chalk lines on the wall to keep your panels leveled.
Position the panels so that the horizontal 48" lip is at the top and the horizontal notch at the bottom.
The 24" or 36" left side of the first panel ( the one with the open lips) should be trimmed, removing the fingers and creating a straight edge. Apply a few lines of adhesive in the back and where the panels overlap / interlock and fasten the panel to the wall using screws or nails.
Install The First Row Of Panels
Continue with the rest of the panels of the first row. Trim the right end of the last panel to fit against the corner. It is always better to mark your dimensions in the back of the panels.
Proceed With The Next Rows
If installing multiple rows of panels, we strongly advice to cut the first panel of the next row in half, and use the right half with the straight lip. This is needed to stagger the vertical seams. ( This doesn't apply for Castello Panels )
Complete All The Rows
Continue until all the rows of panels have been installed in a straight line.
Mark the height of the corner at the same level as the top stone of the panel, not the top lip (see photo below).
Remove the corner and cut it to that mark. Lay some adhesive in the back of the corner and secure it back in place.
Cut The Corner's Heigth To Size
If you are not using our corners but you are mitering the ends of the panels to create a corner, please refer to the How To Create A Mitered Corner instructions.
If you plan to use our INTERLOCKING Outside Corners please refer to the related instructions at the bottom of this page. These interlocking corners are very convenient.
Instal The Next Wall Of Panels
Install the rest of the panels on the opposite side of the corner the same way you did above.
Installing The Top Sills
Install the Top Sills in the correct direction making sure to locate the unfinished edge and placing it against the wall. The bottom front edge should be the finished one. If the sill isn`t touching the wall it should be turned around. To create a better seam between two sill pieces, the sills should be mitered where they meet at the corners.
In most cases caulking the seams shouldn`t be needed but you can apply any exterior grade caulk and use our Touch-Up Kit to match the stone colors.
Enjoy The Great And Very Realistic Stone Look
The great and rewarding finished look
How to treat exposed edges.
In some cases the panels may need to be cut before they reach another wall or a corner, therefore the raw material becomes exposed.
In these scenarios you have a few options:
1- Use our Trim Sill as a trim to cover the edges
2- Shape the exposed edge and touch them up
3- Create a return with the panels itself
1- Our trim sill is the easiest way to cover exposed edges. Simply cut the panel straight and and install the Trim. If you are using the trim around a firebox, a door or a walkway, you should install the Trim first then cut the panels to size in order to butt against the trim.
Use our Trim Sill to cap edges
2- Some customers sand and file the cut edges and shape them as the end of a real stone. They apply some textured caulk and paint it with our Touch-Up kits.
Smooth out the edges and paint them.
3- One of the nicest way to cap the edges, but it requires some expertise with tables saws, is creating a "return". Please refer to our "How to create a return" installation page. Given the thickness and uneven texture of the product, the return strip might break in a piece of two but they can be put back together at the end of the panel. We believe it's still worth going through this process rather than using the second method ( using the touch-up kit). Some people though don't have a table saw available. See the image below as an example.
Creating A Return
How to use our Interlocking Outside Corners.
We also have Interlocking Corners that can be used in place of the straight Outside corners. These new corners interlock on both sides with our panels. A very nice accessory.
Temporarily Install The First Corner
Temporarily place the first corner with one screw ( you might need to remove it later if you install a panel on the left side ).
Cut Down The Corner For 24" Panels
Currently we only offer a 36" high Interlocking Corner but it can be used for the 24" as well. To use them for the 24" high panels you will need to cut off the top 12" of the corner. The top of the corner has the 3/4" high lip, the bottom has a notch in the back.
Install The Panels From Left To Right
As usual, our Stone panels ( contrary to River Rock and Brick ) should be installed from left to right.
Install Panels Until Reaching The Next Corner
If using multiple corners, continue installing panels until the next corner is reached. Cut the right side of the last panel flush with the wall corner and temporarily hold it in place with one screw.
Create The "Fingers" On The Last Panel
Now place the corner over the last panel and, with a marker, trace the "fingers" of the corner over the panel.
Using a jig saw create the fingers on the panel to match those of the corner. Some filing and sanding will be necessary to create a snug fit. Try to cut on or inside the marked lines to avoid gaps.
- Install The Corner
Now you may install the corner and continue the installation of the next wall. If no corner is used to the right side of the wall, you may use our Trim Sill to end the installation.
Some caulking may be needed to make the joint between panels and corners more seamless. We offer Touch-Up Kits if you wish to paint the caulking to completely match the color of the panels.
Enjoy!
Feel free to request additions and modification to these instructions. Send us a comment by clicking here to email info@anticoelements.com.
Thanks!
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EditorInstallation Instructions For Architectural Elements
PRODUCT INFORMATION
Architectural Products do not absorb moisture and will not rot or
crack. However, they will expand and contract with temperature changes. To
minimize the effect of expansion and contraction, it is imperative that the
storage and installation instructions are strictly followed.
STORAGE
Summer Installation
Elements that have been stored in an enclosed trailer or under hot conditions
should be allowed to cool down for a 24-hour period to normal temperature
before installation.
Winter Installation
Elements can be stored outside or in an unheated area and installed
immediately.
Elements should not be stored on an angle in direct sunlight or they
may warp. Although our products are highly impact resistant, they should
be handled with care. Certain impact can cause severe damage.
Tools needed: ( same as wood cutting tools )
• Measuring tape and pencil
• Hand saw (Also: table saw, miter saw or jigsaw if available )
• Nails or screws ( exterior grade if used outdoor)
• Nail set
• Hammer (or screw driver/drill if using screws)
• Level
• Framing square
• Chalk line
• Construction adhesive, E.G: Liquid Nails or PL.
• Safety Glasses
PANELS
1. Arrange your panels the way you want them on your wall. Take note of the
repeat patterns and the alternating block sizes and rotate panels as
necessary. Start with a full panel against the ceiling. Cut panels as
necessary to fit your overall design needs.
Picture 1
2. Because of the highly textured surface, it is recommended that all
measurements should be marked on the flat backside with a pencil
or marker and then use a straight edge or chalk line to mark a
cutting line.
3. Products are easiest cut from the flat backside including mitered cuts. For
ripping panels, a table saw may be most effective. Chop saws may be used
for some product profiles. Handsaws will certainly work also.
4. Wipe off any dust or dirt from your wall and the back of the panels.
Use only commercial grade polyurethane adhesives (i.e., Premium PL
manufactured by OSI, Liquid Nails, etc.) Apply a generous amount of panel
adhesive (minimum 3/8” bead) in a vertical line every 12” along the full
length of the back of the panel.
Picture 2
5. Working from a corner, press the panel firmly into place on your solid wall
backing. Make sure the panel is square both vertically and horizontally.
Picture 3
6. Secure over wood and drywall substrate surfaces with 1 1/2" finishing nails
or screws and over concrete substrate surfaces with tapcon masonry
screws. If you are not using a nail gun, you will have to recess each nail
with a nail set to approximately 1/8".
Picture 4
Use a generous quantity of nails and don’t worry about the holes, as they will
disappear with a little dab of color matched caulk. Apply all the
following panels in the same manner. Place your panels together as tight as
possible, but don’t worry if a slight space is open at some point between the
panels, this will be caulked in. The important step to remember is to have
each panel square and your grout lines matched or lined up.
MOLDINGS (Bases, Chair Rails, Crowns, Pilasters, etc.)
1. Install molding elements on solid substrate backing.
2. Mark out the distance on the wall to be covered by the first piece of molding.
3. Wipe off any dust or dirt from surface area or the element, as detailed
above. Apply a 1/4” bead of adhesive along the backside of the element
and at each end.
Use enough adhesive so that the entire surface of the cut edge is covered. If
you put too much on or too close to the edge, it will squeeze out when
you press it against the mounting surface. This will be hard to clean off. Use
mineral spirits to remove excess adhesive. Start nails at a 45 degree angle
approximately 1/2” from the edge of the element. Starting at one end and
secure this end with finishing nails.
Picture 5
4. Push element flat to the mounting surface and secure with finishing nails
on 16” centers or less. For multiple long runs, anchor first element using
previous procedure. C next element piece. Secure second
element at the mark on the surface. Butt free end of molding into first
piece of molding using adhesive between the elements. Push the first
element flat on to the wall and secure with finishing nails.
Picture 6
5. Certain elements are available with end stops and outside / inside corners.
When applicable measure to accommodate a straight cut and then install
element as set forth above.
Picture 7
6. When mitering an element it is necessary to get as close of a fit as possible.
Apply adhesive to all angle cuts and cross nail from one element to the other.
BRACKETS
1. Cut to size a 2” x 4” wooden section to be inserted into the bracket cavity. If installing outdoors make sure to use pressure treated wood or other water resistant materials.
2. Apply adhesive to wood and attach to the mounting surface using
mechanical fasteners, as detailed above.
Picture 8
3. Apply adhesive to the bracket’s mounting surface and place bracket over
attached wood section and cross nail or use mechanical fasteners to hold
in place.
Picture 9
COLUMNS
1. Half Columns: Install like wall mounted moldings, as set forth above. Use
finishing nails to cross nail and secure capital and base halves to column.
2. Full Column Surrounds
a. Cut base and capital into halves. Note: Bases and capitals can be
ordered as halves..
b. Using a cardboard template trace out interior weight sustaining profile.
Notch-out using a simple handsaw or jigsaw the base and capital tops /
bottoms to accommodate wrapping around the weight sustaining
element.
c. Install base and capital halves by applying adhesive to mounting
surfaces and cross-nailing halves together around weight sustaining
profile and allow adhesive to set.
d. Take column dimension and cut to size column.
e. When columns are in halves, apply adhesive to all vertical mounting surfaces and
cross nailing into opposite column halves to secure while adhesive cures.
f. Install between base and capital by applying adhesive on mounting
surfaces and cross nailing.
3. Free Standing Full Column
a. Create a square wooden mounting box, typically using
2” x 4” planks. Affix to the floor surface with mechanical fasteners.
Picture 10
b. Install base by applying adhesive to mounting surfaces and cross
nailing into wooden box.
c. Measure and cut column halves as appropriate. Be sure to add the
height of the installed base and attached capital.
d. Apply adhesive to all vertical mounting surfaces and cross nailing
into opposite column halves to secure while adhesive cures.
Picture 11
e. When applicable, stack column segments by applying adhesive to all
horizontal / vertical mounting surfaces and cross nailing into bottom /
opposite column halves to secure while adhesive cures.
Picture 12
f. Attach capital by laying assembled column on its side and nailing and / or
screwing through the capital into the column walls.
g. Upright assembled column and attach to base and cross nail to secure
into base and ceiling.
Picture 13
COLUMNS
Apply caulking on all joints with special care when installing elements outdoor.
CONGRATULATIONS...
YOUR INSTALLATION IS COMPLETE
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Feel free to request additions and modification to these instructions. Send us a comment by clicking here to email info@anticoelements.com.
Thanks!
.
Editor