Antico Elements

How To Install Our Panels On A Fireplace

Posted on June 29, 2010

Antico Elements` Stone Panels can be used in a variety of applications including refacing or building a fireplace.
There are two basic ways to use our panels and we'll explore both scenarios in this page:

-With our Corners
-Without our Corners ( mitering our Panels )

Tools needed: ( same as wood cutting tools )

• Measuring tape and pencil
• Saw ( a table saw, or circular with a straight edge are ideal for this project but other types will work too)
• Nails or screws ( exterior grade if used outdoor)
• Hammer (or screw driver/drill if using screws)
• Level
• Construction adhesive.
• Safety Glasses

Click on the photos to enlarge them, then click your browser's Back button to come back here.

Below we'll use a brick fireplace as an example but these instructions will also work for existing stone, cement boars, plain studs and other materials.

Pic1

Original Fireplace

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The ideal installation ( not a requirement ) of our panels includes a 4"-6" frame around the firebox made of tiles or other heat-resistant material. You can use tiles, bricks, slate. Ideally this material should be a bit thicker than our panels, approximately 1/8" more.
Please keep in mind that our panels can be ordered in fire-rated material which is different from fire-proof therefore our panels should not be used inside the firebox area.

Pic2

Frame around the opening

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If you decide to use our Corners this is the step where you should install them:

Pic3

Install the corners

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Once the corners are installed you can cut our panels to fit between them and cut the opening around the frame / firebox.
Install the panels left to right, bottom row first. The first panel should have the left side "fingers" removed, creating a straight line.
The best way to secure the panels is by placing a few beads of construction adhesive ( E.g. Liquid Nails or PL ) on the back of each panel AND where the panels overlap and interlock, then use some screws.

gluing

Apply adhesive.

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We suggest using screws in the middle of the panel (possibly hiding them under a stone) and some around the edges, where panels interlock and overlap. You can cover the screw heads with caulking and paint them with our Touch-Up Kit.

Pic4

Install the panels between the corners

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Install the rest of the panels.
If installing multiple rows of panels start from the bottom up. The next row up should start with half panel to stagger the vertical seam and create a better look:

Pic5

Install all the panels

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If you have a raised fireplace with some space below the hearth you can use the left over material to fill that space. At the corners you can miter the ends of these strips or use a short section of our Corners:

Pic6

Install the panels below the hearth

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This is how it will look at the end:

Pic7

End of installation with corners

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If you decide not to use our corners the panels can be easily mitered at the corners. Please refer to our instructions on How To Create A Mitered Corner .
You can miter the end of the panels using a table saw, circular saw with a straight edge or other wood-cutting tools:

Pic7

Mitering panels

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This is how your fireplace will look without our corners:

Pic7

End of installation without corners

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Alternatives for treating edges around the firebox opening.

Other ways to treat the edges around the opening are:

- Cutting the panel flush with the opening.
- Create a narrow return going inside the opening.

If creating a frame around the opening is not part of your plan you can easily cut the panel flush with the firebox.
After createing the opening use a file or sand paper to round the edges and create some fake grout lines.
Cover the exposed edges with some caulking or Bondo and use our Touch-Up Kit to match the colors of each stone. This is actually very quick fun. See example below.

edge

Cut the panels flush with the opening.

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The last method is to create a return inside the firebox. As mentioned before we do not advice using our products close to the heat source but if your fireplace is pretty deep and your return is just a few inches deep you should be OK. Please run a test by placing a piece of the panel or one of our Samples where the return will be.
Please follow our instructions on How To Create A Mitered Corner in our installation pages.

Return

Miter the ends and create a return

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Once again, to finish the job smooth out the corners and use our Touch-Up Kit if needed.

Touch up

Touch up the corners

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Congratulations! Your job is done and you can now enjoy an incredibly realistic stone look.

We are always available for comments and questions during any stage of your project.

Thank you for your interest in Antico Elements' products!

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Feel free to request additions and modification to these instructions. Send us a comment by clicking here to email info@anticoelements.com.
Thanks!

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How To Create A Mitered Corners

Posted on June 22, 2010

Antico Elements` Stone Panels are designed to interlock on all sides to create a seamless look.
When it comes to corners you have two choices:

-Use our Inside and Outside Corners, which are very easy to install,

Pic1

Using our corners

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or:

-Cut a panel in the middle and wrap it around the corner.

Pic4

Using our Panels to create a corner

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The instructions below are for the second option. Here is how you can cut and miter our panels to create a beautiful corner.

Tools needed: ( same as wood cutting tools )

• Measuring tape and pencil
• Saw ( a table saw, or circular with a straight edge are ideal for this project but other types will work too)
• Nails or screws ( exterior grade if used outdoor)
• Hammer (or screw driver/drill if using screws)
• Level
• Construction adhesive.
• Safety Glasses

Click on the photos to enlarge them, then click your browser's Back button to come back here.

As mentioned above, the ideal saw for this particular project is a table saw BUT you can also use a circular saw with a straight edge.
The two important things to consider in order to create a professional looking corner are:
1- You must miter the edges of the panels that will intersect at the corner and,
2- Both sides of the corners should come from the same panel so that the stones will line up.

Start by measuring where to cut the left side of the corner on a panel. Remember that you should always measure and mark the back of the panels.

Cut the left section so that the back edge will line up with the corner on the wall.
Cut the right section.
You should be left with a triangular piece.

Pic2

Cut a panel in two

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The edges that will intersect at the corner need to be cut at 45 degrees.

Pic3

Miter at 45 degrees

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The best way to secure the panels is by placing a few beads of construction adhesive ( E.g. Liquid Nails or PL ) on the back of each panel AND where the panels overlap and interlock, then use some screws.

gluing

Apply adhesive.

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Install the two halves of the panel to create the corner. Use construction adhesive behind the panels and at the corner joint. Secure with some screws making sure to minimize any gap at the front edge of the corner.

Pic5

Install the two halves

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Using a file or sand paper smooth out the edges and excess material. If both sides of the corners come from the same panel you should have very little to sand.

Pic6

Smooth out the edges

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If necessary use some caulking to seal the gaps and cover to exposed material.
Our Touch-Up Kit can be used to cover the caulk and the sanded areas by matching every color of the stones. Click HERE to view the instructions on how to use our Touch-Up Kit.

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Continue installing the rest of the panels, left to right, and repeat the above instruction for every corner.
For inside corners you can use similar procedure and by mitering the panels with the opposite 45 degree angle.
If installing multiple rows of panels remember to start the next row with half panel to avoid lining up the vertical seams in the same place.
Install our Top Sills if necessary. They add a very nice finished look.

Pic7

Install the rest of the panels.

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Once all the parts are installed you may caulk all gaps to prevent water from sliding behind the panels.

Pic8

Seal the edges

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Congratulations! Your job is done and you can now enjoy an incredibly realistic stone look.

As always, we are available for questions and assistance at any step of your project.
Thank you.  Antico Elements.
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Feel free to request additions and modification to these instructions. Send us a comment by clicking here to email info@anticoelements.com.
Thanks!

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Installation Instructions For Post Wraps

Posted on June 18, 2010

Wraps

Antico Elements` Stone Post Wraps are designed to interlock on all sides to create a seamless look. Even though the installation is very simple, make sure to read the instructions in order to avoid problems and gaps.

Tools needed: ( same as wood cutting tools )

• Measuring tape and pencil
• Hand saw ( a table saw, miter saw or jig saw can be used if available )
• Nails or screws ( exterior grade if used outdoor)
• Nail set
• Hammer (or screw driver/drill if using screws)
• Level
• Construction adhesive.
• Safety Glasses

Click on the photos to enlarge them, then click your browser's Back button to come back here.

Cutting our Post Wrap Panels:
If you need to cut our Post Wraps to accommodate for your project's dimensions, you can use different types of wood saws. The ideal would be a large miter saw but you can easily use a table saw, hand saw or jig saw. Make sure that you measure each panel from the same direction and make the cuts on the same side of all 4 panels. E.G. If you have four panels marked "A" and you cut off the A side from 2 panels and the opposite side from the other 2, the post will not assemble correctly. Always cut the 4 panels in the same spot.

Installing parts:
You should have receive one or multiple sets of 4 flat panels. Although they can be glued together and have them free-stand, we suggest the following steps to anchor the panels to an existing post or support.
Each panel should have an "A" or a "B" stamped on the top or bottom edge. Make sure that each post is created by 4 As or 4 Bs. If you mix the two together they will not interlock.

Begin by creating 8 "L" shaped braces out of plywood or any water resistant material. You may create them by nailing/screwing 2 pieces of wood together at 90°. The overall outside dimensions of the brackets should be about 1/8" less than 12", the inside dimension will vary depending on the size of your post/pillar.
In the example below we have used an 8" post so the brackets are 2" deep.

These instruction are based on a 36" Post Wrap so you may need more than 2 braces if using taller Post Wraps.

Nail / screw some wood blocks on the post/pillar to create a mounting surface for the "L" brackets. When positioning these mounting blocks, keep in mind that the "L" brackets should not be installed higher than 36-1/2" above ground ( or the height of our Post Wrap Panels ) otherwise the Cap will not rest on the panels' edge and you will have a gap in between the two.
The bottom brackets should also be installed a few inches above ground.

Pic1

Install the brackets / supports

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Now that your brackets are installed it's time to snap 2 of the 4 panels together. As mentioned above, each post should be created by four A or four B panels.
You should use some construction adhesive between the "fingers" for better hold. Use some galvanized finishing nails or temporary screws to hold the "fingers" of the panels tightly together until the adhesive sets.
Position the panels against a corner created by the "L" brackets. Again, make sure the "L" bracket is not installed above the top edge of the panels.

Pic2

Install the first 2 panels over the brackets

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Now you can snap panels 3 and 4 together as you did with the first two to create a second corner.
Now position these two panels on the opposite side of the post to complete the four sided Wrap. Glue/nail them to the first two panels.

Pic3

Install the other two panels.

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Our posts can also be stacked. You can cut a section of one post and stack it on another to reach your desired height. We strongly suggest that these cuts are made along the grout lines in order to hide the seams. These seams can be easily caulked and painted with our Our Touch-Up Kits.

Pic3-1

Our Wraps can be stacked

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It's now time to install the Stone Caps.
Our Caps come in 2 interlocking pieces. The middle opening was created for a 4"x4" post so it might need to be cut larger to fit your post size. You can easily do that with a jig saw.

Pic4

Install the caps and touch-up.

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We strongly advise to caulk at least the gaps between the Cap and the wood post to prevent water from going inside the post and possibly rot your mounting brackets if they are made out of non water resistant material.
For better results you can caulk the areas where the panels snap together at the "fingers". Our Touch-Up Kits can be used to paint the caulk to match the colors of the stones.

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Congratulations! Your job is done and you can now enjoy an incredibly realistic stone look.

As always, we are available for questions and assistance at any step of your project.
Thank you.  Antico Elements.

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Feel free to request additions and modification to these instructions. Send us a comment by clicking here to email info@anticoelements.com.
Thanks!

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Why Use Our Products

Posted on October 15, 2009

AnticoElements.com

Why Use Rock Or Stone Faux Panels?

(“both practical and beautiful”)

Most of us at some point had to deal with the stress and frustration of purchasing expensive materials, hiring expensive contractors and have little control over the process and the results of a remodeling project.

What if you could purchase an affordable product with the support and advice of knowledgeable experts and do the work yourself? What if you then had fun doing it and be so proud of it that you started sending the photos of the finished work to your family and friends?
It’s not just a concept, it very possible with our products. All you need are some basic carpenter’s tools and to browse through a few pages in our catalog at AnticoElements.com.

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What are some of the many benefits of our products?

Made in USA
Although some of our designs are inspired by the beautiful and classical styles from around the world, we understand today’s importance in employing American work force. That’s why we proudly make our products in the US!

The Look
Purchasing imitation Stones Panels, Dry Stack and Rock Panels sometimes means getting a lesser product that looks fake.
Sometime so, sometime quite the opposite.
Our products are molded from actual rocks, stone, bricks, coral stone and travertine. The products coming out of  the molds reproduce every single detail, of the stone and even the grouting.
Most people don’t believe they aren’t real rocks, stones and wood until they tap on them. The tapping or knocking is usually followed by a “oh, wow!”.
The colors are applied by hand to further increase the realistic look and avoid pattern repetition when putting panels next to each other. Many competitor’s products are sprayed with one color and simply sponged off.  Not ours! We carefully apply different colors, one by one.

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Cost Saving
Why pay more for a hand-made stone materials and labor involved in long installation when you can pay less for another quality product? This building material is made of high quality, high-density polyurethane and it is available at a fraction of the cost of other materials and other vendors. You can let people admire your work without having to tell them how much you have saved. We provide an additional saving by removing middle men and passing the savings to the customer.  Compare our photos and samples with those from other companies to realize that our prices are lower and our quality superior.

Don’t forget, we always have products on sale.

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Applications.
Our products are designed to withstand outdoor stress tests yet they are beautiful enough to be used as interior decoration.
The latest trend designs are going toward natural look stones.
They can be used in:

Inside and outside homes of all sizes and styles,
In restaurants,
Bars,
Boutiques,
Offices,
Bathrooms,
Kitchens,
Living rooms
Below siding,
Landscaping,
Pool and spa surrounds.
Stone Fireplaces and many other areas.

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Faux stone panels can be installed over most preexisting surfaces.
What do you do if you are a home-owner and are not interested in buying a new home yet you like the look of the natural stone elements? Well, give the front of your home a facelift. Perfect for both residential and commercial applications, faux stone panels allow you to combine very affordable alternatives and style. Choose from the different styles and colors to pick the one most suitable for your project. Stone panels create an everlasting yet modern ambiance and is a perfect architectural and landscaping stone wall material.
These materials bridge the gap between exterior and interior areas. You can now recreate an exterior look in an inside space with very little effort.

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Interlocking feature
Antico ElementsStone Panels are designed to interlock on all sides to create a seamless look. They use a system similar to tongue and groove to virtually remove the seam lines you easily notice in other competitor's products. We have spent vast resources to create a system that provides a great look, prevents water from sliding behind the panels and improve the insulation factor.

Pic7

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Practical and lightweight
Have you ever seen someone install rocks and stone or have you done it yourself? You know how long it takes to lay one stone at a time. Now you can install 8-18 square feet of rocks and stone in one step utilizing our stone panels.

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Simple installation
Anyone can install our products. You don’t need to purchase expensive diamond blades or wet saws, mix mortar and learn to lay bricks before you have the power to fully manage your project. All you need are basic carpenter tools, adhesive and the desire to create something beautiful on your own. We provide detailed instruction and in case you need it, great customer support.

Chimney

Flexible
Unlike other manufacturers our panels are not rigid. They can be installed on a bumpy and curved surface without the need to cut single stones in small pieces and compromise the look.

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Fire rated
Although resistible to high temperatures, all our products are also available in fire rated material for only 10% more.

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Easy to maintain and durable.
Contrary to other “natural products” our panels and accessories are constructed with closed-cell polyurethane particles which means that they will not absorb water and there will be no mold or rutting. They can easily be cleaned and washed. They also will not crack and the finish will barely fade in time. They are so durable and impact resistant that you can even drive a car on it without damage.

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Benefits of accessories
Although our panels can be cut, mitered and sanded to meet around corners, we offer an easier and cleaner solution. We provide matching accessories like:

Inside Corners,
Outside Corners,
Ledges and Sills.

We also have:

Travertine and Coral Stone Columns
Planters,
Caps,
Trim,
Moldings,
Wall caps,
Keystones,
Corbels and Brackets,
Medallions,
Fireplace parts and Surrounds
Many architectural elements.
Chimneys

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For details on all our products please visit our online catalog at www.AnticoElements.com

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Installation Instructions For Interlocking Stone Panels

Posted on September 23, 2009

Antico Elements` Stone Panels are designed to interlock on all sides to create a seamless look. Even though the installation is very simple, make sure to read the instructions in order to avoid problems and gaps.

Pic1

Before installations:
Always try to keep the panels leveled. The walls should be dry and free of dust. Some of the fasteners and adhesive should be used where the panels and lips overlap.

Tools needed: ( same as wood cutting tools )

• Measuring tape and pencil
• Hand saw ( a table saw, miter saw or jig saw can be used if available )
• Nails or screws ( exterior grade if used outdoor)
• Nail set
• Hammer (or screw driver/drill if using screws)
• Level
• Framing square
• Chalk line
• Construction adhesive.
• Safety Glasses

Installing parts:

If you plan to use our corners start by installing them TEMPORARILY before the panels making sure they are perpendicular to the floor. For now just use a couple of nails and NO adhesive.
Pic1

We recommend that you install the panels from left to right. For better results marks some horizontal chalk lines on the wall to keep your panels leveled.
Position the panels so that the horizontal 48" lip is at the top and the horizontal notch at the bottom.
The 24" left side of the first panel ( the one with the open lips) should be trimmed (square with the top or bottom edge of the panel) removing the fingers and creating a straight edge. Apply a few lines of adhesive and fasten the panel to the wall using screws or nails.
Pic2

Continue with the rest of the panels of the first row. Trim the right end of the last panel to fit against the corner. It is always better to mark your dimensions in the back of the panels.
Pic3

If installing multiple rows of panels, we strongly advice to cut the first panel of the next row in half, and use the right half with the straight lip. This is needed to stagger the vertical seams. ( This doesn't apply for Castello Panels )
Pic4

Continue until all the rows of panels have been installed in a straight line.
Pic5

Mark the height of the corner at the same level as the top stone of the panel, not the top lip (see photo below).
Remove the corner and cut it to that mark. Lay some adhesive in the back of the corner and secure it back in place.

If you are not using our corners but you are mitering the ends of the panels to create a corner, please refer to the How To Create A Mitered Corner instructions.

Pic6

Install the rest of the panels on the opposite side of the corner the same way you did above.
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Install the top sills in the correct direction making sure to locate the unfinished edge and placing it against the wall. The bottom front edge should be the finished one. If the sill isn`t touching the wall it should be turned. To create a better seam, the sills should be mitered where they meet at the corners.
Pic8

In most cases caulking the seams shouldn`t be needed but you can apply any exterior grade caulk and use our Touch-Up Kit to match the stone colors.

The great and rewarding finished look
Pic9

Enjoy!

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Feel free to request additions and modification to these instructions. Send us a comment by clicking here to email info@anticoelements.com.
Thanks!

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Installation Instructions For Architectural Elements

Posted on September 23, 2009

PRODUCT INFORMATION
Architectural Products do not absorb moisture and will not rot or
crack. However, they will expand and contract with temperature changes. To
minimize the effect of expansion and contraction, it is imperative that the
storage and installation instructions are strictly followed.

STORAGE
Summer Installation
Elements that have been stored in an enclosed trailer or under hot conditions
should be allowed to cool down for a 24-hour period to normal temperature
before installation.
Winter Installation
Elements can be stored outside or in an unheated area and installed
immediately.
Elements should not be stored on an angle in direct sunlight or they
may warp. Although our products are highly impact resistant, they should
be handled with care. Certain impact can cause severe damage.

Tools needed: ( same as wood cutting tools )
• Measuring tape and pencil
• Hand saw (Also: table saw, miter saw or jigsaw if available )
• Nails or screws ( exterior grade if used outdoor)
• Nail set
• Hammer (or screw driver/drill if using screws)
• Level
• Framing square
• Chalk line
• Construction adhesive.
• Safety Glasses

PANELS
1. Arrange your panels the way you want them on your wall. Take note of the
repeat patterns and the alternating block sizes and rotate panels as
necessary. Start with a full panel against the ceiling. Cut panels as
necessary to fit your overall design needs.

Picture 1
Pic1

2. Because of the highly textured surface, it is recommended that all
measurements should be marked on the flat backside with a pencil
or marker and then use a straight edge or chalk line to mark a
cutting line.
3. Products are easiest cut from the flat backside including mitered cuts. For
ripping panels, a table saw may be most effective. Chop saws may be used
for some product profiles. Handsaws will certainly work also.
4. Wipe off any dust or dirt from your wall and the back of the panels.
Use only commercial grade polyurethane adhesives (i.e., Premium PL
manufactured by OSI, Liquid Nails, etc.) Apply a generous amount of panel
adhesive (minimum 3/8” bead) in a vertical line every 12” along the full
length of the back of the panel.

Picture 2
Pic2

5. Working from a corner, press the panel firmly into place on your solid wall
backing. Make sure the panel is square both vertically and horizontally.

Picture 3
Pic3

6. Secure over wood and drywall substrate surfaces with 1 1/2" finishing nails
or screws and over concrete substrate surfaces with tapcon masonry
screws. If you are not using a nail gun, you will have to recess each nail
with a nail set to approximately 1/8".

Picture 4
Pic4

Use a generous quantity of nails and don’t worry about the holes, as they will
disappear with a little dab of color matched caulk. Apply all the
following panels in the same manner. Place your panels together as tight as
possible, but don’t worry if a slight space is open at some point between the
panels, this will be caulked in. The important step to remember is to have
each panel square and your grout lines matched or lined up.

MOLDINGS (Bases, Chair Rails, Crowns, Pilasters, etc.)
1. Install molding elements on solid substrate backing.
2. Mark out the distance on the wall to be covered by the first piece of molding.
3. Wipe off any dust or dirt from surface area or the element, as detailed
above. Apply a 1/4” bead of adhesive along the backside of the element
and at each end.
Use enough adhesive so that the entire surface of the cut edge is covered. If
you put too much on or too close to the edge, it will squeeze out when
you press it against the mounting surface. This will be hard to clean off. Use
mineral spirits to remove excess adhesive. Start nails at a 45 degree angle
approximately 1/2” from the edge of the element. Starting at one end and
secure this end with finishing nails.

Picture 5
Pic5

4. Push element flat to the mounting surface and secure with finishing nails
on 16” centers or less. For multiple long runs, anchor first element using
previous procedure. C next element piece. Secure second
element at the mark on the surface. Butt free end of molding into first
piece of molding using adhesive between the elements. Push the first
element flat on to the wall and secure with finishing nails.

Picture 6
Pic6

5. Certain elements are available with end stops and outside / inside corners.
When applicable measure to accommodate a straight cut and then install
element as set forth above.

Picture 7
Pic7

6. When mitering an element it is necessary to get as close of a fit as possible.
Apply adhesive to all angle cuts and cross nail from one element to the other.

BRACKETS
1. Cut to size a 2” x 4” wooden section to be inserted into the bracket cavity. If installing outdoors make sure to use pressure treated wood or other water resistant materials.
2. Apply adhesive to wood and attach to the mounting surface using
mechanical fasteners, as detailed above.

Picture 8
Pic8

3. Apply adhesive to the bracket’s mounting surface and place bracket over
attached wood section and cross nail or use mechanical fasteners to hold
in place.

Picture 9
Pic9

COLUMNS

1. Half Columns: Install like wall mounted moldings, as set forth above. Use
finishing nails to cross nail and secure capital and base halves to column.
2. Full Column Surrounds
a. Cut base and capital into halves. Note: Bases and capitals can be
ordered as halves..
b. Using a cardboard template trace out interior weight sustaining profile.
Notch-out using a simple handsaw or jigsaw the base and capital tops /
bottoms to accommodate wrapping around the weight sustaining
element.
c. Install base and capital halves by applying adhesive to mounting
surfaces and cross-nailing halves together around weight sustaining
profile and allow adhesive to set.
d. Take column dimension and cut to size column.
e. When columns are in halves, apply adhesive to all vertical mounting surfaces and
cross nailing into opposite column halves to secure while adhesive cures.
f. Install between base and capital by applying adhesive on mounting
surfaces and cross nailing.
3. Free Standing Full Column
a. Create a square wooden mounting box, typically using
2” x 4” planks. Affix to the floor surface with mechanical fasteners.

Picture 10
Pic10

b. Install base by applying adhesive to mounting surfaces and cross
nailing into wooden box.
c. Measure and cut column halves as appropriate. Be sure to add the
height of the installed base and attached capital.
d. Apply adhesive to all vertical mounting surfaces and cross nailing
into opposite column halves to secure while adhesive cures.

Picture 11
Pic11

e. When applicable, stack column segments by applying adhesive to all
horizontal / vertical mounting surfaces and cross nailing into bottom /
opposite column halves to secure while adhesive cures.

Picture 12
Pic12

f. Attach capital by laying assembled column on its side and nailing and / or
screwing through the capital into the column walls.
g. Upright assembled column and attach to base and cross nail to secure
into base and ceiling.

Picture 13
Pic13

COLUMNS
Apply caulking on all joints with special care when installing elements outdoor.

CONGRATULATIONS...
YOUR INSTALLATION IS COMPLETE

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Feel free to request additions and modification to these instructions. Send us a comment by clicking here to email info@anticoelements.com.
Thanks!

.

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